Rethymnon, Crete’s third-largest city, stretches along the island’s northern coast between Chania and Heraklion. Venetian fortress, picture-postcard port, Ottoman streets and 12km of sand: we were seduced by the density of what this town has to offer in just a few square kilometers. In this article, we share with you our 9 reasons to visit Rethymnon.
This opinion is completely independent, based on our experiences. We visited the region anonymously, making our own choices and paying our bills in full.
Is Rethymnon worth a visit?
Yes, and often more than travelers anticipate. Rethymnon combines an exceptional historical heritage, generous beaches and easy access to Crete’s most beautiful sites – all in a human-sized town, less saturated than other destinations on the island. We found a rare balance between historical depth and everyday pleasures.
We list the reasons in more detail below. You can also take a look at our selection of the city’s top attractions.
Reason 1 – A city with 3,000 years of history on its stones
Few Mediterranean cities can boast such an overlapping of cultures in such a compact space! In Rethymnon, Venetian architecture and Ottoman influences coexist on the same street, sometimes in the same building. The Neratze Mosque is the most striking example: originally a Venetian church dedicated to Santa Maria, it was transformed into a mosque in the 17th century by the Ottomans. Its minaret – the tallest in the city and one of the few still standing in Crete – can be spotted from afar and is a natural landmark for navigating the maze of alleyways. We were struck by the way the Venetian columns and arches interact with the Ottoman additions, with neither obliterating the other. Today, the building houses a music conservatory, giving it a lively second life. The Rimondi Fountain, built in 1626 by the Venetian rector Alvise Rimondi, bears witness to the same care lavished on public spaces: its three stone lion heads framed by Corinthian columns once supplied the inhabitants with drinking water. You’ll find it on Plateia Petychaki, a small square lined with cafés, a must-see both day and night. A city that’s sure to take your breath away!
WHERE TO STAY IN Rethymnon
Our favorites: neighborhoods and hotels
In the historic center
Hotel Palazzino Di Corina – Check photos and availability
Downtown
Boutique-Hotel Pepi – Check photos and availability
By the sea
Nautilux Hotel – Check photos and availability
Reason 2 – La Fortezza, a monument in its own right
If you had to visit just one place in Rethymnon, it would be the Fortezza. Dominating the town from the Paleokastro hill, this star-shaped Venetian citadel was built in the late 16th century to protect the city from Ottoman incursions and pirates plying the Mediterranean. The enclosure is one of the largest in the Cretan archipelago. We were impressed by the sheer size of the site: you can wander between the remains of barracks, cisterns and powder magazines, which tell the story of several centuries of successive occupation. At the center of the fortress, the dome of the Venetian Cathedral of San Nicolo – later transformed into the Mosque of Sultan Ibrahim – a former Ottoman building, takes pride of place with particular solemnity. The panoramic view from the ramparts over the Cretan Sea and the rooftops of the old town alone justifies the climb. We recommend scheduling your visit for the end of the day, to enjoy the sunset. A marvel not to be missed!
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Reason 3 – An old town to explore without a plan
Head for the old town of Rethymnon! You’ll get more out of it without a set itinerary. It’s easy to get lost among the Venetian ogival doors, carved Ottoman wooden balconies and bougainvillea-covered facades. We also appreciated the touches of contemporary art scattered along the streets: colorful street art frescoes on certain walls, modern sculptures slipped into the décor without weighing it down. Among the landmarks to note, the Megali Porta – or Great Gate – marks the ancient entrance to the Venetian fortified city, while the 16th-century Loggia, a former meeting place for Venetian nobles, stands out for its meticulous architecture. There’s no need to hurry, as the streets are open at all hours, with stores and workshops generally open between 9am and 9pm in season. Much of the historic center is pedestrianized, making for a pleasant stroll. You can also book a guided bike tour to learn more about the city’s history.
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Reason 4 – A generous seafront, between beach and rocks
Rethymnon has a rather atypical seaside double face: a huge sandy beach on one side, natural rock pools on the other. Rethymnon Beach stretches for almost 12km to the east of the old town – one of the longest sandy beaches in Crete. We appreciated the variety of atmospheres in the different areas: lively and well-equipped on the harbor side, quieter and less crowded on the eastern side. The water is shallow for the first few meters, making it ideal for families. Areas with deckchairs and umbrellas sit alongside free-access sections.
At the opposite end of the spectrum, at the foot of the Fortezza ramparts, the Despotiko Pools offer a completely different experience. These natural coves nestled in the rocks form pools of clear water where locals come to cool off, far from the hustle and bustle of the big beaches. Bathing here is particularly pleasant, thanks to the rocks that protect you from the current. You can sunbathe on the rocky platforms with the fortress in the background. Bring water shoes and be careful, as access is via stairways cut into the rock. Be careful if the north wind (the Meltem) is blowing hard, as waves can make access to the rocks slippery and swimming dangerous in these natural pools.
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Reason 5 – A living, not museified, heritage
What distinguishes Rethymnon from many other historic towns is that its monuments are still very much alive. The Archaeological Museum, opposite the entrance to the Fortezza, covers over 5,000 years of history, with collections from the Neolithic, Minoan, Roman and Byzantine periods. We found the explanations clear and accessible, even without prior knowledge of Cretan archaeology. Among the most remarkable pieces: finely decorated Minoan pottery, votive statuettes and terracotta sarcophagi. A major new archaeological museum project is currently underway. More info on the official website here.
The Veli Pasha Mosque houses the Rethymnon Paleontological Museum – an unexpected setting for an equally surprising collection: fossils of dwarf elephants and hippopotamuses that populated Crete thousands of years ago. The Chapel of Agios Spyridon, hidden beneath the fortress, is one of those treasures you discover by chance. Its modest yet meticulous interior, icons and Orthodox frescoes contrast with the hustle and bustle of the city. You’ll feel an atmosphere of recollection, quite different from that of the big churches.
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Reason 6 – The Venetian port and its surroundings, from morning to night
Did you know that the Venetian Port of Rethymnon is one of the city’s most photographed locations? And for good reason! This small semicircular port, built in the 13th century, has retained its authentic character, with colorful fishing boats bobbing on the water and the tavernas lining the quayside coming to life as the day progresses. We enjoyed the changing atmosphere according to the time of day – calm and bright in the morning, lively and warm in the evening. At the end of the stone jetty, the Egyptian lighthouse, erected in the 19th century during the Ottoman period, has become one of the symbols of the city. The silhouette of the Fortezza, which dominates the bay, is best seen from this harbour. Access is free at all hours. This lighthouse, although built by the Egyptians around 1830 during their brief occupation of the island, rests on a much older base dating back to Venetian times.
The port is also the best place to find fresh fish: the tavernas on the quayside offer generous Cretan cuisine based on olive oil, market vegetables and local cheeses.
DISCOVER Rethymnon
Reason 7 – A playground for nature lovers and hikers
Rethymnon’s hinterland is full of surprises for those willing to leave the seafront behind. The Gorges de Mili, located around 5km south of the town, are an accessible and exotic nature getaway. This moderately demanding trail follows a stream lined with plane trees and oleanders, passing the remains of several stone watermills – the village of Mili derives its name from the Greek myli, meaning mill. We found this walk particularly pleasant on hot summer days, thanks to the canyon’s natural shade and humidity. You’ll also discover a small chapel and stone bridges along the way. Allow 2 to 3 hours round trip, depending on your pace. Access is free all year round, and there’s a tavern in the village of Mili where you can grab a bite to eat before or after the hike. The village of Roussospiti – nicknamed the balcony of Rethymnon – offers spectacular views of the town, the coast and the Cretan Sea from the surrounding hills. The drive from the center takes just 10 minutes. Free of charge and accessible at all hours, it’s a simple but memorable stop.
Reason 8 – A destination that doesn’t pretend to be a star
Rethymnon doesn’t have the international reputation of Santorini or Chania. That’s precisely what makes it such an interesting choice for you. The town is less saturated, prices are still reasonable and the atmosphere is more local – the tavernas in the harbor welcome as many residents as tourists, and the alleyways of the old town are not exclusively dedicated to souvenir stores. We felt a real sense of neighborhood life here, with cafés where regulars set up shop in the morning, and markets where Cretan produce is sold without staging. And yet, the city has all the infrastructure necessary for a comfortable stay: varied accommodation, good restaurants, open and well-maintained museums. In low season, this balance is even more pronounced. You can visit monuments without queuing, taverns keep their everyday cuisine and prices drop significantly. Some sites have reduced opening hours between November and March, but most are still accessible.
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Reason 9 – The best base for exploring Crete
Situated halfway between Chania and Heraklion on the north coast, Rethymnon is ideally placed for exploring the whole island. Heraklion and the archaeological site of Knossos – a Minoan palace partially reconstructed in the early 20th century by archaeologist Arthur Evans – are a 1h15 drive to the east. The Balos Lagoon, one of the most famous beaches in the Mediterranean, can be reached from the port of Kissamos to the west. The Arkadi Monastery, symbol of Cretan resistance during the 1866 siege against the Ottoman Empire, is just 25km to the south-east. As for the Samaria Gorge – Europe’s longest gorge, 13km of hiking between the Omalos plateau and a further 3km to the coastal village of Agia Roumeli – it’s a day trip from Rethymnon for seasoned walkers. We’ve found this central location to be one of the town’s real assets for travelers wishing to discover the diversity of Crete without changing base every evening. See organized tours to Knossos – to Balos – to the Arkadi Monastery – to the Samaria Gorge.
Some disadvantages of a trip to Rethymnon
Peak season attendance
Rethymnon remains more unspoilt than other Cretan destinations, but the high season – from June to September – is nevertheless clearly visible. The Venetian port, the Fortezza and the terraces of the old town fill up quickly, especially at weekends and when cruise ships call. We recommend visiting the Fortezza in the morning or at the very end of the day, to avoid the crowds. For accommodation and restaurants, early booking is recommended. Outside the high season – in spring or autumn – the city settles back into a quieter rhythm, and prices drop significantly. This is undoubtedly the best time to enjoy Rethymnon at its most local.
Parking and driving
The old town is largely pedestrianized, which is good for strolling around – but makes it difficult to get to by car. Parking in the historic center is very limited. We advise you to use the parking lots along the coastal road to the east of the Fortezza, or the municipal parking lot near the port. Please note, however, that the municipality has strictly limited parking on the coastal road in order to pedestrianize the seafront, so use the guarded parking lots near the port or the Municipal Garden to avoid fines.
In high season, arriving early in the morning is often the best strategy for finding a parking space. Free parking lots are available on the outskirts, a 10-15 minute walk from the center. When it comes to getting around town, walking is more than enough to get to the main sites. City buses run between the center and the seaside areas to the east. To explore the hinterland or visit other Cretan towns, the car remains the most flexible option.
A city that requires mobility to enjoy it to the full
Rethymnon without a car is already a great deal: the old town, the beach and the harbour are all within walking distance of most of the accommodation in the center. By contrast, excursions into the hinterland – to the Mili Gorge, Arkadi Monastery, Roussospiti village or more remote sites such as Knossos and Balos – require either a private vehicle or organized tours. KTEL intercity buses connect Rethymnon with Heraklion and Chania on a regular basis, but frequency remains limited for secondary destinations. If you plan to combine the city and the surrounding area, renting a car on arrival at the airport is the most practical solution. Heraklion and Chania airports, 1h15 and 1h away respectively, are the most common points of entry.
How to get to Rethymnon
Rethymnon has no airport of its own. The two nearest international airports are Heraklion’s Nikos Kazantzakis Airport, 1h15 drive to the east (80km), and Chania’s Ioannis Daskalogiannis Airport, around 1h to the west (65km). KTEL buses run regularly between these two cities and Rethymnon. By car, Rethymnon can be reached via the national coastal road that crosses the whole of northern Crete. To explore the region at your leisure, car rental from the airport is the most practical option. Find a vehicle
PLAN YOUR TRIP TO Crete
- Best of
What to do in Crete
Most beautiful landscapes
Most beautiful cities
Most beautiful beaches in Crete
Best archaeological sites
Best museums
- Practical advice
When to go?
How to rent a car in Crete
Driving tips
- The must-dos
Attractions in Chania
Attractions in Rethymnon
Attractions in Heraklion
Matala
Balos Lagoon
Spinalonga Elafonissi
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