Three weeks in Crete is the ideal time to explore this Greek island in depth: secluded beaches, spectacular gorges, Minoan ruins, unspoilt villages and generous gastronomy. From the north to the south coast, from the White Mountains to the eastern plains, every day has its share of discoveries to make.
We’ve designed this 21-day road trip itinerary to allow you to discover Crete in all its diversity, without rushing. Here’s our day-by-day program, tested on site, to help you organize your stay.
This opinion is completely independent, based on our experiences. We visited the region anonymously, making our own choices and paying our bills in full.
3-week itinerary in Crete: choices
With 3 weeks, you can go all the way around the island, stopping and exploring just about everywhere. We’ve got the balance right:
- nature, history, architecture
- and also more intense days and more restful days.
Here are a few driving times to give you an idea of the destination:
This program runs counter-clockwise from Heraklion airport.
You can also land in Chania and start between days 4 and 6 and finish on the first.
It’s time to book!
Compare everything: companies, prices, schedules and availability.
Practical tips for a road trip to Crete
What type of car?
This road trip requires a car. We recommend reserving your vehicle in advance, especially if you’re traveling between May and October. You’ll need a compact car, but not the smallest engine: mountain roads can be narrow and winding.
See offers from our preferred car rental company – or read all our car rental tips.
Driving in Crete
The main roads are in good condition, but as soon as you leave the north coast, the network becomes narrower and more winding. Some stretches to remote beaches become unpaved tracks. Be careful: goats regularly cross the road, and locals sometimes drive in a sporty manner. On the whole, however, there are no major difficulties. See all our tips for driving in Crete.
Day 1 – Heraklion to Rethymnon via the north coast
Total driving time: approx. 2h
First day of your road trip! After collecting your rental car from Heraklion airport, you head west towards Rethymnon. The road follows the north coast through a variety of landscapes. We suggest three stops along the way.
Stop 1 – Village of Fodele
30 minutes from Heraklion, the village of Fodele nestles in a valley of orange trees. This small village is known as the presumed birthplace of the Renaissance painter El Greco (Domínikos Theotokópoulos). You can visit the Byzantine Panagia church and stroll through the flower-filled alleyways. It’s a gentle first contact with the Cretan countryside. We appreciated the calm of the place, far from the hustle and bustle of the coast.
Stop 2 – Melidoni cave
The Melidoni cave, near Rethymnon, is an impressive cavern whose stalactites and stalagmites create a striking backdrop. The place also bears a tragic memory: in 1824, hundreds of Cretans who had taken refuge there perished from asphyxiation at the hands of Ottoman troops. A memorial in the main hall pays tribute to the victims.
We were struck by the size of the cave and the contrast between its geological beauty and its painful history. The cool temperature inside (around 18°C) provides a pleasant respite in summer.
Every day in summer. Only at weekends in winter.
Stop 3 – Rethymnon Fortress (Fortezza)
Arriving in Rethymnon, climb straight up to the Fortezza, the Venetian fortress that dominates the old town from its promontory. Built in the 16th century by the Venetians to protect the city from Ottoman attacks and pirate raids, it offers a panoramic view of the sea and the city’s rooftops.
Inside, you’ll discover the remains of barracks, a church converted into a mosque and cisterns. We recommend visiting in the late afternoon to enjoy the golden light.
Overnight in Rethymnon. Book 2 nights.
See our selection of the best hotels in Rethymnon.
Or go directly to all top-rated accommodations.
Day 2 – Arkadi and Réthymnon
Total driving time: 1h30 loop
Stop 1 – Arkadi Monastery
The Arkadi monastery, 25 minutes southeast of Rethymnon, embodies the courage of the Cretan people during the 1866 uprising against the Ottoman Empire. Hundreds of resistance fighters and civilians, entrenched in the monastery, preferred to blow up the powder magazine rather than surrender. Its Venetian Renaissance façade, adorned with columns and arcades, is surprisingly elegant in the midst of the mountains. We were struck by the serenity of the place, which contrasts with the violence of historical events. Allow around 1 hour for your visit.
Stop 2 – Village of Margarites
Just a few minutes from Arkadi, the village of Margarites is renowned for its pottery tradition, which dates back to Minoan times. Several workshops line the alleyways, and you can watch craftsmen working clay using ancestral techniques. It’s the ideal place to take home an authentic souvenir. The village itself is worth a visit for its stone houses and views over the valley. We took a pleasant coffee break in the small central square.
Stop 3 – Old town of Rethymnon
Spend the afternoon in the old town of Rethymnon, one of the best preserved in Crete. Wander through the narrow streets lined with Venetian and Ottoman houses, spotting Rimondi fountains and minarets that bear witness to the different dominations. The small Venetian port is home to numerous seafront tavernas. We particularly enjoyed getting lost in the side passages, away from the main thoroughfare, to discover artisan boutiques and flower-filled courtyards.
Find out more about Rethymnon’s attractions.
2nd night in Réthymnon.
Day 3 – Lake Kournas and Chania
Total driving time: about 1h30
Stop 1 – Lake Kournas
Nestling at the foot of the White Mountains, Lake Kournas is Crete’s only natural freshwater lake. Its waters change color according to the light, from emerald green to deep blue. You can rent a pedalo, go for a swim or simply stroll along the shores. In season, freshwater turtles can be seen near the shore. We recommend arriving early in the morning to take advantage of the calm before the tourist rush.
Stop 2 – Chania Archaeological Museum
Housed in the former church of San Francesco, a 14th-century Venetian building, the Archaeological Museum of Chania traces the history of western Crete from the Neolithic period to Roman times. Collections include Minoan pottery, terracotta sarcophagi and gold jewelry. The building itself deserves attention for its architecture. We found the museum to be well organized and reasonably sized: allow around 1 hour for the visit.
To save time, take your tickets with an audio guide.
Stop 3 – Venetian port of Chania
The Venetian port of Chania is considered the best preserved in the eastern Mediterranean. Built in the 14th century, it is lined with former arsenals, colorful mansions and waterside restaurants. The Venetian lighthouse, at the end of the pier, is one of the city’s symbols.
We recommend strolling along the quays in the late afternoon, then choosing a table facing the harbor for dinner. The setting is particularly pleasant at sunset, when the buildings take on warm hues.
Find out more about attractions in Chania.
Overnight in Chania. For 4 nights
See our selection of the best hotels in Chania.
Or go directly to all top-rated accommodations.
Day 4 – Boat trip to Balos lagoon
Driving time: 1h to the port of Kissamos
A day devoted to one of Crete’s most photographed sites. The boat trip from Kissamos takes you to Balos lagoon and the fortified island of Gramvousa.
On the island of Gramvousa, the remains of a 16th-century Venetian fortress crown the summit. The climb is steep, but the panoramic view over the Cretan Sea rewards the effort.
From the boat, the turquoise waters of the lagoon gradually reveal themselves, creating a striking gradation of blues. On arrival, you have free time to swim in the shallow, warm waters of the lagoon, whose sandy bottom blends white and pale pink.
Bring sun cream, a hat and suitable footwear: there’s little shade on site.
Be careful, this is a popular excursion, so book in advance to secure a place on a boat! See excursion options to Balos
2nd night in Chania.
Day 5 – Akrotiri Peninsula
Total driving time: approx. 1.5 hours on a loop
Just a few kilometers northeast of Chania, the Akrotiri peninsula concentrates several points of interest in a small area. A varied day of spirituality, swimming and coastal scenery.
Stop 1 – Akrotiri monasteries
The peninsula is home to several monasteries, the best known of which is Agia Triada Tzagarolon, founded in the 17th century. Its Venetian Renaissance architecture and olive groves are well worth a visit. The monastery produces its own wine and olive oil, which you can buy on site. We appreciated the contemplative atmosphere of this place, far removed from seaside tourism.
Open daily.
Stop 2 – Seitan Limania Beach
Seitan Limania is a narrow cove wedged between two cliffs, forming a miniature fjord with intensely blue waters. The panorama from the parking lot is breathtaking. To get down to the beach, take a steep 15-minute walk (good shoes recommended). The swimming area is small and can get crowded in summer. You can just admire the view and go for a swim at the next, more easily accessible beach.
Stop 3 – Kalathas beaches
To round off the day in a more accessible setting, the beaches of Kalathas and Stavros offer calm, shallow waters, ideal for relaxing after the sporty descent to Seitan Limania. Stavros is famous for being the setting for the film “Zorba the Greek” (1964). We ended the day with a late afternoon swim.
3rd night in Chania.
Day 6 – Hiking in the Samaria Gorge (or alternative)
Driving time: 1h to the entrance to the gorge
The Samaria Gorge is Crete’s most famous hike: a 16km descent through the White Mountains National Park, from the Omalos plateau to the coastal village of Agia Roumeli. The passage through the Portes de Fer, where the rock faces are only 3m apart, is the highlight of the trip.
Allow 5h to 7h for the walk, depending on your pace. A boat will then take you back to Chora Sfakion, then a bus to Chania.
Please note: the gorges are only open from May to around October. Leave early in the morning, bring plenty of water and good walking shoes.
With so much to organise, the easiest way is to book a guided tour!
See options from Chania
Alternative: Theriso gorge and botanical garden
If you prefer a less physical day out, we offer two complementary alternatives.
The Theriso Gorge, 15 minutes south of Chania, can be crossed by car. The road winds between imposing rock faces to the village of Theriso, known for its role in the Cretan revolution of 1905. It’s a short but impressive drive.
The Botanical Garden of Crete, located in the foothills of the White Mountains, features over 150 species of Mediterranean and tropical plants on a shady path. The garden café serves local produce. We enjoyed this quiet stroll in a green setting, far from the crowded beaches.
4th night in Chania.
Day 7 – West coast
Total driving time: 2h30 to 3h30
A day dedicated to Crete’s wildest and most unspoilt west coast. You gradually descend southwards along spectacular coastal scenery, ending with a sunset at Elafonisi.
Stop 1 – Falassarna beach
Falassarna offers a long stretch of golden sand bordered by crystal-clear waters. The beach, regularly ranked among the most beautiful in Crete, faces due west, making it a popular spot for sunsets. The remains of an ancient city can be found nearby. In high season, the beach has deckchairs and a few tavernas. We took a morning swim here before heading south again.
Stop 2 – Chryssoskalitissa Monastery
Perched on a rock overlooking the sea, the monastery of Chryssoskalitissa (“the golden step”) dominates a breathtaking coastal panorama. Legend has it that one of its 90 steps is made of gold, visible only to the sinless. This small, white monastery can be visited quickly. The site is best appreciated for the views it offers of the surrounding wild coastline. We stopped for about 30 minutes to admire the panorama and visit the chapel.
Stop 3 – Elafonisi and sunset
Elafonisi is undoubtedly Crete’s most famous beach(see list of the most beautiful). Its shallow lagoon with turquoise waters and pinkish sand, colored by fragments of shells, create a remarkable natural setting.
Stop 4 – Sunset at Elafonisi
We recommend arriving mid-afternoon and staying until sunset: the orange hues on the pink sand create a memorable spectacle. In summer, the beach is very busy during the day, but the crowds thin out considerably at the end of the day.
Overnight in Elafonisi or Paleochora.
Accommodation options in Elafonisi are limited. See all top-rated accommodation direct.
Paleochora, a small seaside resort on the south coast (45min drive), offers more choice in hotels and restaurants. See all top-rated accommodations directly.
Day 8 – Palaiochora: ruins, views and seaside relaxation
After the intense days of the previous ones, this eighth day is designed to slow down the pace. Paleochora is a small coastal town set between two beaches: a sandy one to the east and a pebbly one to the west. The ruins of the Venetian castle of Selino, perched on the hill separating the two beaches, offer a panoramic view of the Libyan Sea and the surrounding mountains.
We suggest you climb up to the ruins in the morning to enjoy the views, then spend the rest of the day on the beach and in the waterfront tavernas. Paleochora has retained a relaxed, authentic atmosphere. Restaurants offer fresh fish at reasonable prices. We enjoyed this break after a busy first week.
Overnight in Palaiochora.
See all top-rated accommodations directly.
Day 9 – Omalos Plateau and return to Chania
Total driving time: approx. 3h
Today, you’ll head up to Chania via the heights of the White Mountains.
Stop 1 – Omalos Plateau
The Omalos plateau, at around 1050m altitude in the White Mountains, is the starting point for the Samaria hike, but is also worth a visit in its own right. Surrounded by peaks, this vast plateau offers mountain landscapes grazed by flocks of sheep and goats. The fresh air at altitude provides a welcome contrast to the coastal days. Several short trails allow you to stretch your legs and admire the panorama. We stopped for lunch in one of the village tavernas.
Stop 2a – Agia Irini hike
If you’d rather stretch your legs in nature than visit Chania in more detail, stop off at Agia Irini Gorge.
sheer walls, the stream below is dry for part of the year.
Stop 2b – Continuation of the visit to Chania
Back in Chania, take the afternoon to explore what you haven’t seen yet. The Topanas district, a former Jewish quarter now a maze of elegant alleyways, is home to craft stores and galleries. The covered market (Agora) is also worth a visit for its stalls of local produce: cheeses, olives, herbs and honey. We suggest ending the day at the Venetian lighthouse at sunset, a ritual for locals and travelers alike.
Overnight in Chania.
See our selection of the best hotels in Chania.
Or go directly to all top-rated accommodations.
Day 10 – Loutro by boat
Total driving time: approx. 1h30 (excluding boat)
You leave Chania for the south coast, driving through the Imbros Gorge before taking the boat to the remote village of Loutro.
Stop 1 – Road through the Imbros Gorge
The road down to Chora Sfakion crosses the Imbros Gorge, offering spectacular views of the rock faces from the car. The drive is impressive for the narrowness of the valley and the verticality of the cliffs. We were surprised by the radical change in landscape between the high plateau and the southern Mediterranean coast.
Stop 2 – Chora Sfakion and boat to Loutro
Chora Sfakion is a small port on the south coast, the departure point for ferries along the coast. Take the boat to Loutro (approx. 20min crossing). From the bridge, the view of the mountainous coast plunging into the sea is remarkable. We advise you to check ferry timetables in advance, as frequency varies with the season.
See cruise options on the south coast
Stop 3 – Village of Loutro
Loutro is a white village accessible only by boat or on foot, nestling in a protected cove on the south coast. With no cars or roads, the place exudes a rare serenity. The white houses are reflected in the calm waters of the bay. You can swim, have lunch in one of the seaside tavernas or hike to the nearby coves. We were seduced by the slow pace of this village, where time seems to stand still. Take the boat back to Chora Sfakion in the late afternoon.
Overnight in Chora Sfakion.
See all top-rated accommodations directly.
Day 11 – South coast: gorges, beaches and villages
Total driving time: approx. 3h30
A day rich in discoveries along the southern coast, between gorges crossed by car, wild beaches and mountain villages. This is one of the most varied days on this itinerary. Leave early to make the most of every stop.
Stop 1 – Kourtaliotiko Gorge by car
Leaving Chora Sfakion to the east, the road crosses the Kourtaliotiko gorge, one of the most spectacular in Crete. Rock faces close in around the roadway, and lush vegetation lines the slopes. Viewpoints allow you to stop and admire the depths of the gorge. We found this route as impressive as some hikes, without the physical effort.
Stop 2 – Preveli Beach
Preveli beach is one of the most unusual in Crete: a palm-fringed river flows into the sea, creating an unexpected quasi-tropical landscape.You can either just admire the view and visit the monastery.
Or you can walk down a steep path about 20min from the parking lot. You can walk or swim upstream to reach a small natural lake shaded by palm trees. We recommend bringing water and a hat: there are no facilities on the beach itself.
Stop 3 – Preveli Monastery
Situated on a hill overlooking the Libyan Sea, the monastery of Prevéli played an important role in the Cretan resistance, particularly during the Second World War, when it helped Allied soldiers leave the island. The site offers splendid views of the coast and houses a small museum with icons and liturgical objects. The visit takes about 30min.
Stop 4 – Village of Spili
The road continues and on the way you can make a short stop at the mountain village of Spili. It’s famous for its Venetian fountain, adorned with 25 sculpted lion heads from which flows drinking spring water. The village’s steep lanes reveal stone houses and ancient churches.
Stop 5 – Triopetra Beach
Our favorite thing about Crete! (because we love rock formations…). Triopetra owes its name to the three monumental rocks rising out of the sea. This wild beach on the south coast offers a grandiose setting, less crowded than the beaches on the north coast.
Stop 6 – Sunset in Matala
End this long day in Matala, famous for the caves carved into the cliffs that line the beach. Arrive for sunset: the golden light on the cliffs pierced by caves creates a striking tableau.
Overnight in Matala. Book for 2 nights.
See all top-rated accommodations directly.
Day 12 – Matala, Phaistos and Gortyna
Total driving time: approx. 1h20
Today, the focus is on Minoan and Roman history. Two major archaeological sites are located close to Matala, on the fertile Messara plain.
Stop 1 – Matala caves and walk to Red Beach
Before leaving Matala, spend the morning admiring the beach caves. In the 1960s-70s, these caves served as a refuge for an international hippie community, including Joni Mitchell, who used them as inspiration for her song “Carey”.
Finish off with a short hike to Red Beach. This 20-minute coastal path hugs the cliffs and leads to a secluded beach surrounded by reddish rocks. The area is sparsely developed and often frequented by naturists. The ochre color of the cliffs against the blue of the sea creates a striking contrast.
Find out more about Matala (coming soon).
Stop 2 – Phaistos archaeological site
Phaistos, the second-largest Minoan palace after Knossos, occupies a hill overlooking the Messara plain. Unlike Knossos, the site has not been reconstructed: you can observe the remains as they were excavated by archaeologists, which gives you a better idea of the scale of the original construction. It was here that the famous Phaistos disc was discovered, the writing of which remains undeciphered to this day (the original is on display at Heraklion’s Archaeological Museum). We found the atmosphere more peaceful than Knossos, and the panoramic view over the plain and Mount Ida is remarkable.
Stop 3 – Gortyna
15 minutes from Phaistos, the site of Gortyna bears witness to another stratum of Crete’s history. This city was the Roman capital of the island and of the province of Cyrenaica from the 1st century B.C. We discovered the remains of a 6th-century Christian basilica, a Roman odeon and, above all, the Gortyne code of laws, one of the oldest legal corpuses in Europe, engraved in stone. We were fascinated by these 2,500-year-old inscriptions governing daily life.
Alternatively, if archaeology isn’t your thing, replace Gortyna with a hike through the Agiofarago Gorge, accessible from the south coast, whose vertical walls plunge down to the sea.
2nd night in Matala.
Day 13 – Coastal road to Makry Gialos
Total driving time: approx. 3h
Stop 1 – Coastal road to Myrtos
The road between Matala and Myrtos winds along the south coast through arid landscapes dotted with olive groves and greenhouses. There are regular views of the Libyan Sea, and the road passes through several rural villages that offer a glimpse of Cretan farming life. Take your time on this stretch: there are plenty of bends and panoramic views worth a few photo stops. We found this to be one of the most beautiful stretches of our road trip.
Stop 2 – Village of Myrtos
Myrtos is a small, authentic coastal village that has retained its tranquil atmosphere despite the gradual arrival of tourism. Its white houses slope down to a dark pebble beach. The seafront is home to a few family-run tavernas where fresh fish is cooked simply. We stopped here for lunch, enjoying the local cuisine and the peaceful pace of the village.
Stop 3 – Makry Gialos
Makry Gialos is a discreet seaside resort on the southeast coast, with a long sandy beach and shallow waters. It’s less touristy than the north coast and offers a good choice of accommodation and restaurants. Take advantage of the late afternoon for a swim. We found this a restful stopover, ideal between the busier days of sightseeing.
Overnight at Makry Gialos.
See all top-rated accommodations directly.
Day 14 – Wild East Coast
Total driving time: approx. 3h
A great day of exploration in the easternmost part of Crete, the least visited part of the island. You’ll take in a succession of very different sites, from abandoned villages to palm groves unique in Europe. Leave early.
Stop 1 – Ghost village of Etia
Etia is an abandoned village whose ruins of stone houses blend into the arid hilly landscape. The most remarkable building is the Venetian manor house De Mezzo, a large 15th-century residence that has partially collapsed. The place is silent and evocative: you can imagine the life that once animated these walls.
Stop 2 – Magnificent route to Xerokampos
Then descend to Xerokampos. This is a magnificent little stretch of road between the gorge and the sea.
Stop 3 – Xerokampos beach
Xerokampos is an isolated hamlet in the far south-east, surrounded by several sandy beaches and crystal-clear coves. The area is largely undeveloped for tourism, giving it a wild character. We took a dip in an almost deserted cove, one of those moments of solitude that are appreciated in high season.
Stop 4 – Zakros
Kato Zakros is home to both a Minoan archaeological site (the Palace of Zakros, the fourth largest Minoan palace in Crete) and a small pebble beach lined with tavernas. The archaeological site, close to the sea, can be visited in around 45 minutes. The beach is a good place for lunch, with your feet almost in the water. We enjoyed the peace and quiet of this remote corner of the island, and the proximity of the ruins to the sea.
Stop 4 – Vai palm grove
Vai boasts Europe’s largest natural date palm grove, with some 5,000 trees lining a golden sandy beach. The contrast between palm trees, sand and turquoise sea evokes unexpected tropical landscapes in the Mediterranean. In summer, the beach is equipped with deckchairs and a refreshment bar. Legend has it that the palm grove was formed from date pits discarded by Arab pirates. We recommend climbing the nearby hill to enjoy the view of the entire palm grove.
Stop 5a – Toplou monastery (if you have time)
The Toplou monastery, fortified like a citadel, is one of the most important in Eastern Crete. Its name comes from the Turkish word for “cannon”, in reference to its history of resistance. It houses some remarkable icons, including the masterpiece “Great is the Lord” by Ioannis Kornaros (18th century). The monastery also produces a renowned organic wine and olive oil, which you can buy in the store. We love its fortress-like appearance.
Stop 5b – Sitia
End the day in Sitia. This is a lesser-known town in Crete, but one we love for its authentic atmosphere(see our list).
We enjoyed the local atmosphere on the seafront promenade, where Cretans come to meet up at the end of the day. The Venetian fortress Kazarma, although partially in ruins, is a fine example of defensive architecture.
Overnight in Sitia.
See all top-rated accommodations directly.
Day 15 – Mochlos to Elounda
Total driving time: approx. 2h
Stop 1 – Village of Mochlos
Mochlos is an authentic fishing village, set on the edge of a small bay facing an islet housing Minoan remains. It’s a quiet, untouristy place, perfect for a morning coffee by the sea. The tavernas serve grilled fish caught that very morning. We liked this village for its unspoilt atmosphere, in contrast to the seaside resorts of the north coast.
Stop 2 – Gournia archaeological site
A few kilometers from Mochlos, the site of Gournia offers a different perspective on Minoan civilization. Unlike the palaces, this is an entire town: you walk through the narrow streets of an ordinary Minoan city, between craftsmen’s houses, workshops and small squares. This site, less visited than the great palaces, gives a concrete insight into daily life 3,500 years ago. We found the visit more informative than some of the more prestigious palaces.
Stop 3 – Voulisma Beach
Voulisma (also known as Istron Beach) is considered one of the most beautiful beaches on the north-east coast. Its fine sand and shallow turquoise waters make it a pleasant place to swim. In summer, the beach is equipped with umbrellas and a refreshment stand. We spent a welcome moment of relaxation there between the day’s cultural visits.
Stop 4 – Kritsa village
Clinging to the sides of a mountain, Kritsa is a mountain village renowned for its textile crafts (tablecloths, traditional weavings) and steep alleyways. Nearby, the Panagia Kera church boasts some of the best-preserved 13th-14th century Byzantine frescoes in Crete. The village itself offers beautiful views over the valley below. We suggest you allow around 1 hour to explore the narrow streets and visit the church.
Overnight in Agios Nikolaos or Elounda. We prefer Elounda.
See all top-rated accommodations directly.
Day 16 – Spinalonga and Malia Palace
Total driving time: approx. 1h (excluding boat)
Stop 1 – Fortress island of Spinalonga
Spinalonga is a small fortified island in the Gulf of Mirabello, accessible by boat from Elounda or Agios Nikolaos (15-30min crossing). The island has had three lives: Venetian fortress (16th century), Ottoman stronghold, then leper colony from 1903 to 1957, one of the last in Europe. Victoria Hislop’s novel “The Island of the Forgotten” contributed to its international renown. A visit to the ruins provides an insight into the daily lives of the island’s forced residents. We found the place deeply moving, between the dilapidated walls and the views over the bay.
See excursion options to Spinalonga.
Stop 2 – Malia Palace
Malia Palace, the third-largest Minoan palace on Crete, stands out for its proximity to the sea. Less reconstructed than Knossos and less perched than Phaistos, it reveals its foundations and courtyards in a pleasant coastal setting. The bee pendant, a masterpiece of Minoan goldsmithing, has been discovered here (on display at the Heraklion Archaeological Museum). The site is generally less crowded than the other palaces, making for a quiet visit. We enjoyed the sea breeze as we explored the ruins.
Overnight in Malia. Book for 3 nights.
See our selection of the best hotels in Malia (coming soon)
Or directly all the best rated accommodations.
Day 17 – Rest and beach in Malia
After two intense weeks on the road, this day is entirely devoted to rest. Malia has long sandy beaches on its north coast, well-equipped with parasols and deckchairs. While Malia’s tourist center can be lively in the evening, its beaches offer good swimming conditions during the day. You can also explore the coves to the east of the town for more peace and quiet. We recommend this break: body and mind need to recuperate before the last days of the trip.
2nd night in Malia.
Day 18 – Myths and local life
Total driving time: approx. 2h
Stop 1 – Cave of Zeus (Dikteon Andron / Psychro)
According to Greek mythology, it was in this cave on the Lassithi plateau that the titanid Rhéa gave birth to Zeus, king of the Olympian gods, to hide him from his father Cronos, who was devouring his children. Descending the 200 steps to the bottom of the cave reveals evocatively shaped stalactites and stalagmites, illuminated by a discreet lighting system. A small underground lake completes the decor. The climb back up is physical, but well worth the effort.
Stop 2 – Lassithi Plateau
The Lassithi plateau, at around 840m above sea level and surrounded by mountains, is one of the few inhabited plateaus in Crete. Once covered by thousands of windmills used to irrigate crops, a few have been restored. The villages on the plateau are mainly agricultural: potatoes, cereals and almonds. A panoramic tour by car takes you around the plateau and stops in the villages. We loved the atmosphere of this unspoilt area, far removed from coastal tourism.
Stop 3 – Lychnostatis open-air museum
Back on the coast, the Lychnostatis open-air museum near Hersonissos recreates traditional Cretan life through dwellings, workshops and gardens. You’ll discover an oil mill, a wine press, a furnished peasant house and craft demonstrations. This ethnographic museum is particularly well suited to understanding the rural way of life that has shaped Cretan culture. We enjoyed this hands-on immersion in the island’s traditions, complementing the archaeological visits.
3rd night Malia.
Day 19 – Knossos and Archaeological Museum
Driving time: 40min to Knossos
Stop 1 – Knossos Palace
Knossos Palace is Crete’s most visited archaeological site and the center of Minoan civilization. Partial reconstructions carried out by archaeologist Arthur Evans in the early 20th century show the proportions and decoration of this palatial complex, which contained over 1,300 rooms. The restored frescoes (copies on site, originals in the museum) reveal a sophisticated society that mastered architecture and maritime trade over 3,500 years ago. We recommend arriving as soon as the museum opens, to avoid tourist groups and the heat. Allow 1h30 to 2h for your visit.
One point to note: Evans’ reconstructions are the subject of debate among archaeologists, some of whom consider them too interpretative. This controversy adds an interesting dimension to the visit.
Book your guided tour tickets now, to learn all about this incredible place!
Stop 2 – Heraklion Archaeological Museum
The Archaeological Museum of Heraklion houses the world’s largest collection of Minoan art. Once you’ve seen the sites, this is where it all makes sense: the original frescoes from Knossos, the Phaistos disc whose writing remains undeciphered, the bee pendant from Malia, the rhytons (ritual vases) in the shape of a bull’s head. The collections range from Neolithic to Roman times. We were fascinated by the finesse of the Minoan objects and the sophistication of this ancient civilization. Allow at least 2 hours for an in-depth visit.
Book your audioguide tickets now to avoid the queues!
Overnight in Heraklion. Book for 2 or 3 nights depending on your departure date.
See our selection of the best hotels in Heraklion.
Or directly all the best rated accommodations.
Day 20 – Heraklion as you wish
The last full day of your road trip is devoted to discovering Heraklion, the capital and largest city of Crete. Often overlooked by busy travellers, the city is well worth a visit. Find out more about attractions in Heraklion.
You can start with the Koules maritime fortress, built by the Venetians in the 16th century to guard the entrance to the port. It offers beautiful views of the bay and the fishing port. Afterwards, stroll along the Venetian ramparts that surround the historic center. Rue du 25 Août (25is Avgoustou) links the port to Place des Lions (Plateia Liontarion) and its Morosini fountain.
We also suggest a visit to Agios Minas Cathedral, a stroll through the covered market on 1866 Street for its stalls of herbs, cheeses and honeys, and a break in one of the cafés around El Greco Square. If you haven’t already done so, the Kotsanas Museum of Ancient Greek Technology offers an original, interactive approach to Greece’s scientific heritage.
2nd night in Heraklion.
Day 21 – Departure
Last day of your Cretan road trip. Depending on the time of your flight or ferry, you can enjoy a last swim on one of the beaches near Heraklion, or simply savor a last Greek coffee on a terrace.
Heraklion airport (Nikos Kazantzakis) is 5km from the town center. If you’re taking the ferry to Athens (Piraeus) or the Cyclades, the port is in the town center.
Frequently asked questions
What’s the budget for 3 weeks in Crete?
Expect to pay around €50 to €120 per night for a mid-range hotel, €30 to €50 per day for tavern meals, and around €35 to €75 per day for car rental (including insurance). Entrances to archaeological sites and museums cost between €5 and €20.
Do I need to book accommodation in advance?
Booking in advance is essential, especially for tourist areas such as Chania, Elafonisi and Agios Nikolaos. In May-June and September-October, you can be more flexible, but you’ll need to allow time to find accommodation. We prefer to concentrate our time on sightseeing!
Can this itinerary be adapted to 2 weeks?
With 2 weeks, you can also circumnavigate the island, but the pace will be faster and you’ll have to make choices. Our 2-week itinerary is coming soon.
PLAN YOUR TRIP TO Crete
- Best of
What to do in Crete
Most beautiful landscapes
Most beautiful cities
Most beautiful beaches in Crete
Best archaeological sites
Best museums
- Practical advice
When to go? (coming soon)
How to rent a car in Crete
Driving tips
Itineraries (coming soon)
Where to stay in Crete (coming soon)
- The must-dos
Attractions in Chania
Attractions in Rethymnon (coming soon)
Attractions in Heraklion
Balos Lagoon (coming soon)
Spinalonga (coming soon)
