Heading to eastern Crete? Don’t miss Spinalonga, a small fortified island across from the village of Plaka. We were captivated by this place, where Venetian ramparts, Ottoman houses, and remnants of one of Europe’s last leper colonies stand side by side. Accessible only by boat, the island can be explored on foot in a few hours.
In this article, you’ll find some useful tips to help you prepare for your visit and have a great time!
This opinion is completely independent, based on our experiences. We visited the region anonymously, making our own choices and paying our bills in full.
Why visit Spinalonga?
Is Spinalonga worth the trip? Our take:
Yes, Spinalonga is definitely worth a visit. On this small islet, Cretan history unfolds in layers: Venetian bastions, Ottoman alleyways, and then the buildings of the leper colony. The place moved us deeply. It’s one of the best things to do in Crete!
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Why is Spinalonga famous?
Spinalonga is best known for its history as a leper colony, which operated from 1903 to 1957 and is considered one of the last of its kind in Europe. Before that, its Venetian fortress was among the most formidable maritime strongholds in the Mediterranean. The site is also included on UNESCO’s Tentative List of World Heritage Sites. For us, it is one of the most beautiful archaeological sites in Crete.
We also learned that the story of the leper colony was brought to a wider audience through a novel by Victoria Hislop and a Greek television series, which have since attracted many visitors.
Our favorite moments
Here are the three moments that made the biggest impression on us while we were on the island:
- The crossing, with the island gradually coming into view and the emerald-colored waters
- Passing through the Dante Gate, the tunnel that leads into the old colony.
- The climb to the summit and the panoramic view of the ramparts and the Gulf of Elounda.
- View the different access options and make a reservation
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Directions and Map: Spinalonga, Plaka (Crete)
Where is Spinalonga?
- On the northeastern coast of Crete, just north of Agios Nikolaos,
- At the entrance to Elounda Bay, across from the village of Plaka,
- Boats depart from Plaka, Elounda, and Agios Nikolaos
- Travel time from Elounda to Plaka: 10-minute drive
- Travel time to Plaka from Agios Nikolaos: 30-minute drive
- Driving time from Heraklion to Plaka: 1 hour and 25 minutes
- Here is a map to help you find your way:
How to get there?
Spinalonga is accessible only by boat. Three ports offer regular service during the season: Plaka, Elounda, and Agios Nikolaos. Please note that the boat ticket does not include the site admission fee, which must be paid on the island.
- From Plaka (the shortest route): The village is directly across from the island. Small fishing boats make the crossing in about 5 minutes, running roughly every 30 minutes during peak season. This is the route we recommend if you want to arrive early and enjoy the site before the tour groups arrive.
- From Elounda: This is the main departure point. Boats leave the central pier every 20 to 30 minutes during peak season, for a crossing that takes 15 to 30 minutes, according to various sources.
- From Agios Nikolaos: Several companies offer half-day or full-day excursions. The boat ride takes 45 minutes to 1 hour each way and often includes a stop for swimming—for example, at Kolokytha—or even a barbecue on board.
- View the different access options and make a reservation
If you’re staying farther away, opt for an organized bus tour. These tours typically last between 8 and 10 hours and combine the ferry ride to Spinalonga with free time in Agios Nikolaos or Elounda. Some packages include a swim and a barbecue meal. Before booking, we recommend checking whether the boat ride and entrance fee are included—this isn’t always the case with the cheapest options.
Parking
In Plaka, parking spaces are limited: in the summer, arrive before 9 a.m. to find a parking spot easily.
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Useful tips: duration, schedules, eating…
Best time to visit
The site is open only during the summer months, from April 1 to October 31. To avoid the crowds, take the first boat from Plaka: that way, we were able to enjoy the nearly empty streets for quite a while. Keep in mind that your visit also depends on the weather and ferry schedules.
Length of visit and main difficulties
Plan to spend at least 2 hours on the island, not including the ferry ride. The main loop can be walked without any major difficulty. However, the terrain becomes uneven if you climb to the summit, so comfortable shoes are a must. We also recommend bringing water and sunscreen.
For visitors with limited mobility, the official website states that it is possible to explore the island along its main perimeter road.
Advice on how to visit
From the pier, enter the old settlement through the Dante Gate, then walk up the main street lined with old shops. Continue toward the churches and the hospital, then follow the coastal road that runs along the sea to the cemetery.
If you have the energy, finish by climbing to the summit to take in the entire view of the fortifications. That’s the route we took, and it seemed like the most logical one to us.
Visiting with children
Boats, ramparts, and a tunnel: there’s plenty for younger visitors to enjoy on Spinalonga. We didn’t see any activities specifically for young visitors on site, but the official website offers two online games to prepare for the visit: a mystery game called “Mystery in Spinalonga” and a quiz on the island’s history. The history of the leper colony, however, requires some explanations tailored to children’s ages.
Schedules and rates
- The site is open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., from April 1 through October 31. It is closed in the winter (from November 1 through March 31). Some holidays have special hours, such as Good Friday (12:00 PM–6:00 PM), and the site is closed on May 1 and Easter Sunday, among other days.
- Full price: €20 (April 1–October 31)
- Reduced rate: €10, specifically for European Union citizens over the age of 65 upon presentation of identification (discount valid from October 1 through May 31)
- Free admission: March 6, April 18, May 18, the last weekend in September (European Heritage Days), and October 28
- The boat is not included in this price. Visit the official website for more information here.
Guided tours
Exploring the island on your own is easy. If you’d prefer a guided tour, some excursions departing from Elounda or Agios Nikolaos include a professional guide on the island. To help you plan your visit, the official website also features an interactive map, 3D reconstructions, panoramic views, and audio tours: we found them very helpful for understanding the layout of the island.
Catering
There is a café and restrooms near the dock when you arrive on the island. There is also a shop that sells archaeological guidebooks, maps, and souvenirs. For a full meal, you’ll find more options back on the coast, in Plaka or Elounda.
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Start of the tour: the Venetian fortress
As soon as you set foot on the pier, the 16th-century Venetian walls remind you of the island’s original purpose: to block access to the Gulf of Elounda.
Dante’s Gate
Just a few steps from the landing stage, the path leads through an opening in the rampart into a long, low tunnel. We discovered that this passage is nicknamed the “Gate of Dante,” in reference to the Florentine poet’s *Inferno*. According to tradition, the sick entered the colony through this passage, often with no hope of recovery.
We paused at the tunnel exit, facing the first houses. Take a moment to look back: the contrast between the dim light of the tunnel and the brightness of the street perfectly captures the history of this place.
The Venetian ramparts and bastions
Built between 1579 and 1586 on the ruins of an ancient fortification, the fortress protected the natural harbor of Elounda and the Venetian trade routes. It was equipped with up to 35 cannons (to be verified). As you walk along the route, you’ll pass several bastions, including the Tiepolo and Donato bastions, as well as the Michiel and Barbariga half-moons.
We found it fascinating to learn that, according to the Venetian cartographer Vincenzo Coronelli, Spinalonga was separated from the neighboring peninsula by the Venetians themselves. We also spotted the Porta Maestra, the main entrance to the walled enclosure.
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In the Heart of the Leper Colony
After passing through the tunnel, the island reveals its most moving side: that of a village where people with leprosy lived in isolation from the rest of the world for more than half a century.
The Main Street and the Old Ottoman Village
The main street follows the layout of the old Ottoman village, which was built starting in 1715 on Venetian foundations. In the 19th century, merchants and sailors prospered there thanks to the trade routes of the eastern Mediterranean.
We then came to understand how the patients, who began arriving in 1903, came to live in these houses and shops. Take a close look at the restored facades and the old shops: you’ll get a sense of an organized, almost ordinary daily life. The colony even had a director, a doctor, nurses, and a priest, which surprised us greatly.
Inside, you’ll discover aspects of life from different eras, including games.
The Hospital and the Decontamination Room
Further up, the former hospital and dormitories bear witness to the living conditions of patients with Hansen’s disease, the medical term for leprosy. We were struck by the austerity of these buildings. Not far from there, the disinfection room was used to treat objects that were transported between the island and the mainland (to be verified). Pause for a moment in front of these walls: they serve as a reminder of the fear of contagion that surrounded the disease at the time. We also learned that the colony was the lifeblood of the local economy, as the village of Plaka grew to supply it.
The Island’s Churches
Three churches mark the tour: Saint-Pantaléon, Saint-Nicolas, and Saint-Georges. We lingered in front of Saint-Pantaléon Church, which occupies a central location in the former colony. This healing saint, highly revered in the Orthodox world, gives the place a special significance.
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End of the tour: the ring road and the cemetery
The final stretch of the trail follows the coastline before heading back up to the higher ground, where you can take in the entire site.
The Ring Road and the Remoundakis Inscription
The road that circles the island was built during the time of the leper colony. An inscription there pays tribute to Epaminondas Remoundakis, a prominent figure in the community of those affected by leprosy. Follow this seaside path: you’ll enjoy a panoramic view of the gulf and nearby Plaka. This walk offered us a welcome moment of tranquility, away from the tour groups.
The cemetery and the island’s highest point
At the end of the ring road, the leper colony cemetery is the final resting place for many of the patients. . There is also an Ottoman cemetery on the island, a remnant of the previous period.
Next, if your legs are up to it, climb to the summit: the trail is uneven, but you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view of the ramparts and the sea. It was from this vantage point that we best understood the fortress’s strategic position.
History in brief
A fortress, a village, and later a place of isolation, Spinalonga has had many lives. Here are the key milestones we’ve highlighted:
- 1579–1586: The Venetians, who were then in control of Crete, built a fortress on the ruins of an older fortification to protect the natural harbor of Elounda.
- 1669: Crete came under Ottoman rule, but Spinalonga remained Venetian and served as a refuge for insurgents.
- 1715: After a siege, the island was ceded to the Ottomans. Muslim families settled there and built their homes on the Venetian foundations.
- 19th century: Merchants and sailors took advantage of the area’s safety; there were about 80 families living there in 1834.
- 1903: The Cretan government gathered leprosy patients from across the island—and later from all over Greece —there (some sources cite 1904; to be verified). The village of Plaka developed across from the colony to supply it.
- 1957: Thanks to antibiotics, the leper colony closed, and the island was abandoned for several decades.
- Today: The site is managed by the Lassithi Ephorate of Antiquities, a regional office of the Greek Ministry of Culture.
Frequently asked questions
What does the name Spinalonga mean?
The name comes from Venetian and means “long thorn.” The Venetians gave it to the island, whose ancient name was Calydon.
Can you visit Spinalonga in the winter?
The site is closed from November 1 through March 31, except for groups by request.
What else is there to see around Spinalonga?
The Gulf of Elounda is home to other historical sites, such as the sunken ancient city of Olous and the Venetian salt flats. Agios Nikolaos is also worth a visit.
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