At the northwestern tip of Crete, Balos Lagoon stretches out with its turquoise waters facing the island of Gramvousa. We have no hesitation in ranking this site among the island’s most beautiful coastal landscapes, as the contrast between the sand, the shallow lagoon, and the surrounding cliffs is striking. Access is limited to boats, 4WDs, or hiking, which explains why the environment has remained largely untouched.
Here are some helpful tips in pictures to help you get the most out of your visit and have a great time while you’re here!
This opinion is completely independent, based on our experiences. We visited the region anonymously, making our own choices and paying our bills in full.
Why Visit Balos Lagoon
Is Balos Lagoon worth a visit? Our take:
Yes, Balos Lagoon is definitely worth a visit. The combination of an emerald-colored lagoon, a fortified island steeped in history, and a boat ride along steep cliffs makes for an experience rich enough to warrant a full day.
It’s one of the best things to do in Crete, as well as one of the boat tours we recommend most in the Chania region.
We loved it, even with all the tourists on the boat. The space is still pretty big, though.
Our favorite moments
Among all that this boat tour to Balos has to offer, we’d especially like to highlight:
- The climb up to the Venetian fort at Gramvousa, for the bird’s-eye view of the boat anchored below.
- The boat trip along the cliffs of Cape Vouxa, between the islets of Agria and Imeri Gramvousa.
- Swimming in the lagoon, where the water is often no deeper than ankle or knee height.
- Book your boat tour in advance!
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How to Get to Balos Lagoon: Directions and Map
Where is Balos Lagoon located?
- At the northwestern tip of Crete
- The boat departs from Kissamos, west of Chania.
- Travel time to Kissamos from Chania: 40 min
- Travel time from Rethymnon: 1 hour 40 minutes
- Travel time from Heraklion: 2 hours and 45 minutes
- And if you take a 4WD, it’s a 40-minute drive from Kissamos.
- Here is a map to help you find your way:
How to get there? Options
Gramvousa Island is accessible only by boat, while there are several ways to reach Balos Lagoon.
- First, by boat from the port of Kissamos: the cruise takes you to the island and then to the lagoon, with bus pick-up available from Chania and Rethymnon, and 1 to 3 departures per day in the summer (from May to October, approximately; no departures in the winter).
Book your ticket online, with or without a bus transfer included. Book early—this is a very popular tour! - Next, take a 4WD along an unpaved trail that begins past the Balos Beach Resort in the village of Kaliviani, west of Kissamos: expect 10 km of narrow, bumpy trail. Don’t go there in your rental car! Some companies offer organized 4WD tours.
- You can also go hiking from Falasarna Beach along a fairly long trail.
Parking
If you choose to take the boat, free parking is available at the port of Kissamos, or you can opt for the package that includes a bus from Chania, Rethymno, or Heraklion.
If you choose to drive along the road, a new municipal parking lot has been built in Kaliviani: it can accommodate about 300 vehicles and is specifically designed to limit traffic on the road leading to the lagoon. A small fee is required to support the conservation of the reserve and for parking.
Hosting
There is no lodging at Balos Lagoon itself. Your best option is to stay in Kissamos, near the port, or at a hotel located along the road leading to the lagoon, such as the Balos Beach Resort in Kaliviani. For a livelier stay, Chania and Rethymnon also offer good bases from which to explore the western part of the island.
RENT YOUR CAR IN Crete
- Our preferred agency is Rental Center Crete
everything is included in the price and the service is excellent. No stress! - Choose a car with a decent engine for greater comfort on the few mountain roads.
- Book early for choice.
- If you prefer international brands, compare prices on DiscoverCars
Useful tips: duration, schedules, difficulties…
Best time to visit, opening hours and prices
The boat cruise operates only during the season, from approximately May through October, with one to three departures per day depending on the time of year. In winter, the lagoon can only be reached by 4WD on the trail or by hiking from Falasarna.
We recommend arriving early if you’re driving along the trail, so you can enjoy the site before the boats arrive, or, conversely, staying late to watch the sunset—keeping in mind that you’ll then have to drive back along the trail in the dark. Access to the lagoon is free and open to the public; only the reserve entrance fee and parking are charged for those arriving by car.
Length of visit and main difficulties
If you’re traveling by boat, plan on a full day: over 1 hour by boat to Gramvousa, 2 hours on the island, a 20-minute boat ride to Balos, then 3 hours there, before heading back to Kissamos. This schedule may vary if rough seas cause the boat trip to take longer.
Be sure to pack warmer clothes for the boat ride, which is often windy, as well as sunscreen.
The climb to Gramvousa Fort involves about 400 steps along a single, fairly steep trail; we recommend assessing your physical condition before setting out, as the time you can spend there is limited.
At the lagoon, you have to walk a short distance from the boat to the lagoon. It’s not difficult, but it’s not exactly an easy path either. It’s remained in its natural state.
From the parking lot, it’s a 1-kilometer walk—a fairly steep one, with stairs—to the lagoon. It’s very steep.
Visiting with children
The lagoon, where the water rarely gets higher than knee-deep, is perfect for a family outing. We find it much safer than the beach area, where a deeper section separates the two stretches of sand—sometimes reaching up to the hips.
Book in advance
This is one of the most popular places in Crete—book your tour as soon as possible:
Catering, Toilets and Facilities
On board the boat, there is a small food court offering snacks, salads, fruit platters, and ice cream, as well as restrooms.
There are no facilities on the lagoon itself: be sure to bring your own water and beach supplies. The boat remains accessible at all times during your visit, so you can return to it if needed.
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The boat ride, between cliffs and untamed islets
Balos Cruises operates several boats departing from Kissamos, including the Gramvousa, the largest ferry on the route. We appreciated the number of seats, which are spread out among the outdoor deck, a covered area, and an indoor section, accessible via about twenty steps.
The crossing first follows the eastern coast of the peninsula, dotted with spectacular cliffs, all the way to Cape Vouxa. As you pass by, you’ll catch a glimpse of a large cave, likely a former shipyard.
The boat then rounds the northern tip and sails between the cape and the uninhabited island of Agria Gramvousa, before heading south again, between the cape and the island of Imeri Gramvousa, with the inland mountains as a backdrop.
Gramvousa Island: Between Pirates and Venetian Ruins
Although Balos is largely responsible for the site’s reputation, we were more impressed by the island of Gramvousa itself. Its silhouette of steep cliffs and turquoise waters comes into view even as the boat approaches.
It is sometimes called “Pirate Island”: the Cretan insurgents of the Greek War of Independence, which began in 1821, did indeed engage in piracy there due to a lack of sufficient resources, an activity that eventually tarnished the island’s reputation in Europe until the British and French navies intervened in 1828.
The island, protected by the Natura 2000 network, is also home to remarkable flora: 173 plant species have been recorded there, including Anthemis glaberrima, a rare plant found nowhere else. Therefore, it’s best to stay on the marked trails during your visit. You’ll disembark at the small port located on the western side of the island, below the fort that overlooks the highest point.
You can spend some time on the beach and at the café, or head up to the fort. Even if you can’t go all the way to the top, we recommend climbing a little way up to enjoy the beautiful views before turning back.
The island’s main attraction remains the fortress built by the Venetians between 1579 and 1584, due to its strategic location for controlling the strait between western Crete and the Peloponnese. Perched 137 meters above the sea and surrounded by sheer cliffs, the site remained impregnable for a long time: even after the rest of Crete fell to the Ottomans in 1669, Gramvousa remained under Venetian control.
It was not until 1692 that the fortress was handed over to the Ottomans, after a Venetian commander had been bribed. In 1825, in the midst of the War of Independence, the Cretan insurgents finally managed to seize it by posing as the new Ottoman guard.
A single path, dotted with numerous steps, leads up to the ruins. We estimate that it takes about 400 steps to reach the top, an effort that is more than rewarded by the view of the lagoon, the boat anchored below, and the Geroskinos mountain range, which rises to about 600 meters.
Not far from the landing stage lies the wreck of the Dimitrios P, a 35-meter cargo ship that was carrying 440 metric tons of cement to North Africa: caught in a storm in early January 1968, it broke its moorings on January 8 and ran aground on the island’s southern coast, where it still lies today.
However, we ask that you remain alert, as there are a few submerged rocks in the area. About ten minutes before departure, the boat sounds its horn loud enough to ensure that no one misses boarding.
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Tigani Island, the gateway to the lagoon
After a short 20-minute boat ride from Gramvousa to Balos, the boat docks on Tigani Island, a small hill that encloses the lagoon and gives it its distinctive shape. From there, it’s about a 5-minute walk to the sandy beach. We strongly recommend wearing closed-toe shoes for this part of the walk, as the island is covered in rocks and low, rather prickly vegetation.
If you climb a little higher above Tigani, you’ll get a panoramic view of the entire lagoon area, with the mountain range in the background. For those who don’t want to swim too much, you can also climb up past the pier to the small church of Agios Georgios (St. George)—a detour that lets you get away from the crowds of swimmers.
It’s time to book!
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Balos Beach and Lagoon
The site is actually divided into two very distinct areas. On the north side, the beach opens onto shallow water that extends for a long distance—but is deep enough for swimming—with an unobstructed view of Gramvousa Island. Two sandy sections—one on the island side and the other on the peninsula side—are separated by a strip of water that is deeper than it appears, sometimes reaching up to the hips; it’s therefore best to stay alert when crossing it.
On the south side, however, lies the lagoon itself: an emerald-colored body of water, shallow almost everywhere, where the atmosphere seemed much calmer and more suitable for children.
Further north in the lagoon, a rocky area reveals a variety of hues—ranging from pink to yellow to orange—that we found particularly photogenic. The water there is also deeper and cooler, making it ideal for snorkeling; a turtle is said to live there, though it is shy and rarely seen.
Just like at Elafonisi Beach, you can see pink sand at Balos Lagoon, formed from millions of pink seashells that have been ground down over time. The amount of pink visible varies greatly depending on the waves, the tide, the weather, and the season, but is generally most pronounced at the water’s edge. We therefore recommend that you watch your step to fully appreciate this unique feature.
Back to Kissamos
During the three hours spent on the lagoon, you can return to the boat at any time; it remains accessible at all times. About ten minutes before departure, the horn sounds one last time to signal our return to the port of Kissamos, after a day that left us with some truly memorable memories among our boat trips in Crete.
Balos Lagoon by 4WD
Otherwise, you can choose the 4WD tour.
It can’t take you to Gramvousa Island, of course, but it offers a different perspective on the lagoon.
You’ll arrive via the cliffs east of the lagoon.
You’ll enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the lagoon. But if you want to go for a swim, you’ll have to climb down the very steep cliffs (and, more importantly, climb back up on your own?).
Frequently asked questions
Does the boat run year-round to Balos Lagoon?
No, the boat cruise only operates during the season, generally from May to October, with one to three departures per day from Kissamos. Outside of this period, the lagoon can only be reached by car via the Kaliviani trail or by hiking from Falasarna.
PLAN YOUR TRIP TO Crete
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Attractions in Chania
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Matala
Balos Lagoon
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